Kuratake Shrine sits on the highest summit of the Amakusa islands, and its small stone torii looks like it is floating above the sea. In Japan it is known as the “Torii in the Sky”. We stopped there on a road trip from Nagasaki to Kumamoto, a few days before Christmas, and by pure luck we reached the top right at sunset.
It was very cold and windy at the top, and I still think about that view a lot. If your route takes you from Nagasaki to Kumamoto, make this detour.
Kuratake Shrine at a Glance
| Location | Summit of Mount Kuratake, Kuratake-machi, Amakusa City, Kumamoto Prefecture |
| Elevation | 682 m, the highest point of the Amakusa islands |
| Nickname | Torii in the Sky (天空の鳥居) |
| What it is | A small mountain shrine where people traditionally prayed for safety at sea and good fishing |
| View | The Amakusa islands, the Yatsushiro Sea and the Ariake Sea, on clear days all the way to Mount Unzen |
| Access | By car only, narrow mountain road from Route 266 near Tanasoko, then a short walk |
| Cost | Free, parking included |
Mount Kuratake has been a sacred mountain for the people of Amakusa for a long time. The shrine at the top is tiny, a stone torii and a few stone lanterns, and the area around it belongs to the Unzen-Amakusa National Park. There is not much to see at the shrine itself. The reason to come is the view from the summit.
Nagasaki to Kumamoto via the Amakusa Islands
The fastest route from Nagasaki to Kumamoto is the expressway around the Ariake Sea. We took the slower route across the islands. From Nagasaki we drove down the Shimabara Peninsula to the port of Kuchinotsu and put the car on the ferry to Oniike on Amakusa.
The crossing takes about 30 minutes and is run by Shimatetsu Ferry. You do not need to book, cars simply line up and board in order. Check the timetable before you go, because the last ferries leave in the early evening.
From Oniike we drove across the Amakusa islands towards Kuratake Shrine. After the shrine we drove on to Kumamoto in the dark, where we had booked an apartment for the next few nights.
Driving in Japan: Calmer Than I Expected
I am from Germany, where large parts of the Autobahn have no speed limit at all. So I did not expect to enjoy the Japanese speed limits as much as I did. Expressways are usually 80 to 100 km/h, country roads often 40 to 60. That sounds slow, but it makes driving in Japan a lot more relaxed than I expected.
Japanese drivers know what they are doing, and nobody tailgates you. In all our days on the road I did not see anyone push their way through.
Driving on the left is also much easier than you might think. Still, every now and then, at a quiet junction or when turning into a car park, you fall back into old habits and drive a bit strangely for a moment.
Renting a car and the licence translation
We rented our car from Nissan Rent a Car in Fukuoka, drove to Nagasaki, then on to Kumamoto and back to Fukuoka, where we returned it. If you want to compare prices first, Klook lists car rentals in Fukuoka (affiliate link) from several companies, and you can filter by where your licence was issued.
With a German licence you cannot use an International Driving Permit in Japan. You need an official Japanese translation of your national licence instead. When we did it, we got ours from JAF (the Japan Automobile Federation) in Tokyo, and it only took a few hours.
That has changed since. JAF now only accepts applications online and from within Japan, and it takes a few business days. If you have a German licence, the easier option is to order the translation from the ADAC before you leave. Other countries have different rules (many can simply use an International Driving Permit), so check which document your licence needs before you travel.
One more practical tip: out on the islands you navigate with your phone the whole time, so make sure you have mobile data that also works in rural areas. I compared the options in my guide to staying connected in Japan.
The Road Up to Kuratake Shrine
The drive up to the shrine was quite an adventure. The road up Mount Kuratake is basically a single lane, with a steep drop on one side and very few places to pass.
Whenever a car came towards us, it got a bit nerve-racking. One car has to reverse to a wider spot or both squeeze past at walking pace, and with that drop next to you, you watch every metre.
At the top there is a car park just below the summit. From there it is about five minutes on foot up to the shrine and the torii.
Sunset at the Torii in the Sky
We had not planned it, but we arrived just as the sun was going down. The low light hit the stone torii and the blue banners next to it.
Below us the Amakusa islands spread out across the water. It was very cold and windy up there, but the view was fantastic.
There is not much to do at Kuratake Shrine apart from standing by the torii and looking out over the islands. Still, it is one of the places from our trips I remember most often. If you visit, please keep in mind that it is still a shrine. My guide to temple and shrine etiquette in Japan covers the basics.
5 Tips for Visiting Kuratake Shrine
- Go before sunset. We were lucky with the timing, and the evening light made the view even better. Arrive a little early so you can drive up while it is still light.
- Bring a warm jacket. The summit is exposed and the wind is strong. In winter it is properly cold.
- Drive slowly and expect oncoming cars. The road is narrow, with few mirrors and few passing places. In winter there can be ice on the road, especially early in the morning.
- Plan the drive down in the dark. If you stay for sunset, you will drive down without daylight. We did it without problems, just take it slowly.
- Bring snacks. Amakusa is rural, so do not count on finding vegan food on the way. Stock up at a konbini before the ferry. My vegan konbini guide shows what to look for.
FAQ
How do I get to Kuratake Shrine?
Kuratake Shrine is only practical by car. Leave Route 266 near Tanasoko on Amakusa and follow the mountain road to the car park below the summit. From central Kumamoto it takes around two and a half hours. From Nagasaki you can take the ferry from Kuchinotsu to Oniike.
How long is the walk from the car park?
From the car park we used, it was about five minutes uphill to the shrine. There are several parking areas along the road, and from the lower ones the walk is longer.
Is the road to Kuratake Shrine dangerous?
It is narrow and steep, and passing oncoming cars takes patience. If you drive slowly and are comfortable reversing a bit, it is manageable. Avoid it after heavy rain or when there is ice.
Why is it called the Torii in the Sky?
The torii stands right at the edge of the summit at 682 m. From the right angle you only see sky and sea behind it, so the gate seems to float in the air.